A Guide to The Best Squamish Climbs
With over 3000 epic rock climbing routes in Squamish BC, it can be intimidating navigating the guide books for your perfect climb. We created this guide to give you an overview of some of the best climbs in Squamish BC. The following list of rock climbing routes is an overview for a well-rounded climbing experience in the core Squamish area. All climbs are 5.11a and under making them a great introduction to Squamish climbing. Some of these climbs are already Top 100’s, while others you may not have heard of. With more routes being developed every year, stay tuned to Squamish Adventure for more information on the latest developments in the climbing world.
Best Beginners Sport Climb – Zoe 10a
Located in Murrin Park this bolted route offers interesting and varied face climbing past 7 bolts in 23m. A must do while in the area, and very unique for the grade.
Best Intermediate Sport Climb – Pleasant Pheasant 5.11a
This top 100 face climb was originally climbed purely on gear, but is now fully bolted. Positive holds lead way to a pumpy finish. Located in Murrin Park this makes a great combo with Zoe.
Most Scenic – Skywalker 5.8
A varied and well protected beginner multipitch at Shannon Falls provides views overlooking Howe Sounds, as well as the Stawamus Chief. A short walk from the top of the climb will take you to a natural pool near the top of Shannon Falls where you can cool off before the descent. Several more challenging variations exist making this a climb to repeat.
Best Introductory Bouldering Bloc – The Cleans
At the northern end of the North Wall boulders lies ‘The Cleans’, a bloc of boulders with safer than typical landings for Squamish, a high concentration of V0-V2 problems, as well as many high quality intermediate problems. The forest is open and airy allowing the boulders to dry fast, while it’s semi-remote destination allows for a quieter experience than the Grand Wall Boulders. One can easily spend an entire afternoon without needing to travel.
Best Beginners Trad Single Pitch – High Mountain Woody 5.8+
A long pitch on The Malamute has excellent views of Squamish and Howe Sound. The 45m climb begins with the crux and eases off as you ascend making this a great lead for beginners. The route is well protected, and may also be split into two pitches for gear anchor practice.
Best Intermediate Trad Single Pitch – Hypertension 5.11a
This 15m climb located in Murrin Park is a classic test piece of wide-crack climbing in Squamish. Established in 1975, it has seen many names and will require cams up to 6”. Wear your jeans!
Best Slab Experience – Over the Rainbow 5.9
This fully bolted route is one of the easiest friction climbs up the Apron. 6 pitches of quality, sustained climbing with small runouts will keep you on your toes the whole way. Bring gear up to 2’’ to avoid runouts on the final pitches.
Best 1st Lead – Laughing Crack 5.7
This was not only my first fully gear lead, but also many others I know. The climb is easily protected with a standard single rack, has no run-outs, ledges or other objective hazards. The climbing is straight forward and blissful, often leading to uncontrollable laughter after a successful lead.
Best Mixed Bag – Chewbacca 5.10b
Located on Gobsmacking wall at Shannon Falls is one of Squamish’s newest multi-pitches including 3 pitches of extremely varied climbing from finger crack to squeeze chimney to committing moves onto ledges. Combine this with Skywalker for a full day of climbing at Shannon Falls.
Best New Multipitch – Sunset Strip 5.10d
This ‘mostly new climb’ ascends through 12 pitches in the Western Dihedrals, utilizing sections of classic climbs such as Millenium Falco and The Gauntlet creating a direct and diverse line up The Stawamus Chief. The route is a well-protected trad line with several bolts, great belay stances and fully bolted anchors.
For more information on these climbs please drop by Valhalla Pure to pick up the latest guide book or hire a professional guide to show you the best of Squamish climbs & help you navigate the amazing routes around here!